Croatia

I decided I wanted to go to Croatia a few months ago when I read an article about a National Geographic Explorer writer who found out his very unique Croatian last name was the same as a lighthouse keeper's on a small Croatian island.


He decided to visit the man (and do an article on Croatia) to see if they shared the same bloodline. Once in Croatia the writer was eager to get to work on their lineage but the lighthouse keeper insisted his new friend relax, eat their food, drink their home-made wine and more importantly explore the island before there were any words about their ancestors. This went on for three days!


The writer soon discovered the natural beauties of the island, its people, and the warm hospitality of the Croatian home. In the end they found they were not related but after a few days in Croatia the writer felt like he had known the light house keeper for many generations. The pictures in his article were fantastic so I knew I would like Croatia even if the hospitality wasn't as he described it. In the end Croatia impressed me more than any country I've visited so far but its people are not at all the way the writer describes them...they are far better!

I am picked up by Dobrisa in Dubrovnik after my overnight ferry ride from Italy. Dobrisa is a father of 3 and with his wife and kids, runs the family-owned hostel I am staying in which has an incredible view of Dubrovnik. Once at the hostel I'm eager to get going to explore Dubrovnik but instead he offers me a welcome drink (home-made wine with honey) and insists I let him prepare breakfast for me along with providing details of the surrounding area.


He does this with every single guest who arrives at his hostel. Just like the National Geographic Explorer writer, I am immediately introduced to Croatian hospitality. This type of genuine kindness was displayed my entire stay in Croatia by everyone I encountered and I felt more comfortable here than most places I've been to the past two months. Dubrovnik is a a very quiet town with a lot of history. The walls that surround the old town could tell endless about war and survival.


For this reason the first thing I did was take a walk along the walls to take in the old town from above and see the sea that surrounds it. With spectacular views Dubrovnik is a hot tourist destination but I arrived a few days after the official summer season had ended so I had great weather without hoards of people around. Dubrovnik (and Croatia for that matter) do not have sand beaches but what the do have is a rocky coastline littered with crystal clear water out of a photo-shopped screensaver.


I have never seen water this clear and if I didn't know any better I would scoop some up and take a drink. I rented a scooter like I did in Italy and decided to explore the coastline for the day. I rode about 30km east and west of Dubrovnik in my 50 cc speed demon (picture the dumb and dumber scene on the 'hog'). Eventually I arrived at my destinations. First was Cavtet which was a bit like Dubrovnik but by this point completely empty.


I spent a good amount of my day here walking around the shore, reading and once again being floored by the clearness and calmness of the water. It has been the most relaxing day I have had so far. I had the entire town to myself. As the sun slowly began to turn the corner I headed to Trsteno. There was a cool arboretum I wanted to see here. Just like Cavtat this town was also empty and walking around the many trees, flowers and species in the arboretum was very calming.


I found an old shack nearby and saw a path which I followed all the way to a cliff-top lookout point that looked deserted. The hike there reminded of something out a Legend of Zelda video game. Rugged coast line, windy, but very green everywhere you looked. One of many great spots to take in a Croatian sunset.


As I rode my scooter back I watched the sun hide behind an island and tried to catch it as I approached the next bend. This game went on until it finally sank behind the horizon. It won... That evening, as we did every evening, the entire hostel sat around the common area sharing the day's activities, where they're from, travel stories, and anything else. Conversations are mostly travel related and it's great to hear everyone's experiences and travel dreams.


This is my favorite thing about staying in hostels. There is a new beginning every day and everyone always has a story which they are welcomed and encouraged to share. Most hostels have this atmosphere but there was something about this hostel that made it more real. I think Dobrisa's warm welcome is addicting and it rubbed off on everyone. To any of you that have not read about Croatia you'll be doing yourself a favor if you do. It is a gem that will leave you coming back for more. East meets West in my next blog as I take a loong road trip to Turkey.