Cappadocia (Turkey part 2)

I was attempting to Skype with Greg a few nights ago from Turkey and miraculously got a connection. I could tell it was Sunday because Greg had his Broncos shirt on and until then I hadn't realized what day it was (a very common thing for me these days).


I could only get WiFi standing outside where it was 28F that night. I had a thick scarf, my breath was continually hitting the screen on my iPad, I hadn't shaved in a few days (I'm growing a sweet mustache in honor of Movember), and the connection was scratchy. Greg says to me "you look like a CNN war correspondent...are you're in a cave?!" I


laughed and told him I wasn't working for CNN but I WAS very close to a cave. I was talking to Greg from Cappadocia, Turkey, one of the most mind boggling places I have ever been to. Oh and yes, my bed for the night was in fact inside a cave... My Canadian friends (Paola, Nicole) and I took a 12 hour overnight bus from Istanbul to Cappadocia where we would spend the next 36 hours


exploring. We had a pretty set itinerary and knew what we were doing the entire time. Cappadocia is an extremely vast region and is famous for its wild horses and magnificent rock formations along with the people who have made their homes in these rocks for centuries.


With the tourist high season ending and the low temperatures arriving, we would have to brave the bitter cold but with clear blue skies in the forecast we knew we were lucky to have arrived when we did.


Many of the sites we saw in Cappadocia caught me by surprise because I wasn't expecting to find such clear and visible signs of early Christianity in Turkey but yes, this area was inhabited by Christians hundreds of years ago. In a mostly Muslim country it made this mysterious place even more appealing to me.


We were able to see underground cities, churches, and homes carved out of teepee-like rock formations in spectacular detail. Some people still live in these today but a lot of the churches and more extravagant creations have become tourist attractions.


The highlight of the trip was a hot air balloon ride over part of the region. We had to brave frostbite-like weather but it was well worth it.


The cold morning was perfect for flying and with nothing but clear skies and the sun rising slowly our visibility was pretty much perfect.


This was my first hot air balloon ride and I couldn't think of a better place to do it than here.


Cappadocia also brought out the kid in me. Every rock, boulder and anything climbable seemed to be calling my name.


There is a rock called "camel rock" that apparently not a lot of people climb because after I climbed and sat on it, our guide shook my hand and called me spider man!


This place reminds me a lot of Joshua Tree but with a lot more history and mystique.


We also enjoyed a traditional Turkish dance show...all you could eat and drink included!


Eventually our entire table was on the dance floor and I was selected to participate in a Turkish dance where men dance for a young lady's hand.


Apparently I did OK and won. I may now be married according to Turkish tradition. Great success!

the road to Istanbul (Turkey part 1)

After an unforgettable few days in Dubrovnik, Croatia, my 'plans' had me trekking to Turkey. One hears Turkey being described as the country "where East meets West", famous for its Turkish delights and baths and, according to Lonely Planet, one that has no lack of mustaches. True for the most part and knowing this I prepared myself for a good dose of culture shock. I wouldn't be doing the sleepless 24 hour, multiple bus ride across 3 countries alone however.


I was lucky enough to meet my new friends Paula and Nicole, two Canadians with the same itinerary as mine, and would set out to reach the gateway to Asia with smiles on our faces the entire journey. Sleeping on overnight buses is an art form that takes a few tries to master. Our bus from Herceg Novi, Montenegro, to Skopje, Macedonia, would challenge even the deepest of sleepers.


12+ hours of climbing and descending the Dinaric Alps at an avg speed of ~30kmph, stopping and turning constantly, made it really tricky to keep your head somewhat still. Well, the road won that game and when we arrived at the bus station at 4am the next morning all we wanted was to shut our eyes until we could book our next bus a few hours later. As much as we tried to close our eyes in a dark corner of that bus station, sleep would just not want to cooperate. There were mysterious bugs, cold floors and non-stop foot traffic. Lack of sleep: 2, red-eyed backpackers: 0!

Eventually the sun came up, we got our bus tickets to Istanbul and were game to start killing about 11 hours in chilly and rainy Macedonia. We found out it wasn't very difficult to pass the time. We ate street food, walked around Skopje for a few hours and found a big outdoor market entertaining us for a good while. Appetites fully open now and with a few more hours to spare we did what any sensible traveler does under such circumstances...we started drinking.


Of all places we sit down at a Mexican restaurant and after Macedonian nachos (with what we think was guacamole), 3 desserts, 9 beers and and a few shots of tequila we finished walking around Skopje with a burst we hadn't had since we left Dubrovnik. Still rolling from our afternoon bender we decided to try our luck at the bus station casino where we were happy to drink for free.


After losing it all on roulette ($4) we bought snacks, water and hopped on the bus to Istanbul. Our luck finally changed on this bus having it pretty much to ourselves allowing us to use entire rows of seats to sleep...well, more like pass out. One dead boar and 6 border crossings later my passport was finally starting to look busy and just like that we were watching the sunrise as we pulled into the bustling Istanbul bus station.


Refreshed after a redeeming bus ride we rewarded ourselves by checking into a nice hotel and immediately began exploring the city. The blue mosque (a structure that is as addictive to look at as baklava is to eat) was just steps


from our hotel and we toured it first followed by the Agiasofia mosque (which is now a museum). I love the respect demonstrated at mosques and the sense of brotherhood it encourages. Mosques are used so much more frequently (5 times a day for mostly synchronized prayer broadcasted via


speakers all over town) than churches and cathedrals and to me it portrays the importance of these structures that dominate the skyline. Later we found a small mosque tucked behind a bazaar, put our shoes in plastic bags and walked in.


Men were literally running into the mosque as to not miss any part of the prayer. We respectfully stood in the back and watched as men and women prayed in different sections. Yet another great memory etched in my head. I have been in many places of worship for various religions and/or faiths and I'm glad I can experience the same sense of calm and peacefulness regardless of the venue.


The next few days were spent getting lost in the streets of Istanbul, hopping in and out of bazaars with Paula, Nicole, and Esin (Elisson's wife's cousin)


eating delicious food at various restaurants and street carts, dancing at one of the best clubs in istanbul,


smoking sheesha (or hookah), getting a hot shave, and exploring my rekindled love for the many different types


of my absolute favorite Turkish delight; baklava. So many variations from pistachio to chocolate with oozing honey being the one constant thing in common. Sorry gelatto, you've been trumped!


We have also loved the people in Turkey. Just as kind as Croatians and with a great sense of humor. We have met and had many laughs with some of the one-liners used to try to reel us in to restaurants and bars.


A recent knee-slapper was: "...don't worry I won't bite, I am a vegetarian" We are now off to Capadoccia to explore fairy chimneys on a hot air balloon and Ephesus


to tour one of the best-kept ancient roman cities. The next few days will be spent braving the elements as weather is starting to change drastically. High in Capadoccia this week is supposed to be around 35F...missing that Cali sun just a tad right now.

Croatia

I decided I wanted to go to Croatia a few months ago when I read an article about a National Geographic Explorer writer who found out his very unique Croatian last name was the same as a lighthouse keeper's on a small Croatian island.


He decided to visit the man (and do an article on Croatia) to see if they shared the same bloodline. Once in Croatia the writer was eager to get to work on their lineage but the lighthouse keeper insisted his new friend relax, eat their food, drink their home-made wine and more importantly explore the island before there were any words about their ancestors. This went on for three days!


The writer soon discovered the natural beauties of the island, its people, and the warm hospitality of the Croatian home. In the end they found they were not related but after a few days in Croatia the writer felt like he had known the light house keeper for many generations. The pictures in his article were fantastic so I knew I would like Croatia even if the hospitality wasn't as he described it. In the end Croatia impressed me more than any country I've visited so far but its people are not at all the way the writer describes them...they are far better!

I am picked up by Dobrisa in Dubrovnik after my overnight ferry ride from Italy. Dobrisa is a father of 3 and with his wife and kids, runs the family-owned hostel I am staying in which has an incredible view of Dubrovnik. Once at the hostel I'm eager to get going to explore Dubrovnik but instead he offers me a welcome drink (home-made wine with honey) and insists I let him prepare breakfast for me along with providing details of the surrounding area.


He does this with every single guest who arrives at his hostel. Just like the National Geographic Explorer writer, I am immediately introduced to Croatian hospitality. This type of genuine kindness was displayed my entire stay in Croatia by everyone I encountered and I felt more comfortable here than most places I've been to the past two months. Dubrovnik is a a very quiet town with a lot of history. The walls that surround the old town could tell endless about war and survival.


For this reason the first thing I did was take a walk along the walls to take in the old town from above and see the sea that surrounds it. With spectacular views Dubrovnik is a hot tourist destination but I arrived a few days after the official summer season had ended so I had great weather without hoards of people around. Dubrovnik (and Croatia for that matter) do not have sand beaches but what the do have is a rocky coastline littered with crystal clear water out of a photo-shopped screensaver.


I have never seen water this clear and if I didn't know any better I would scoop some up and take a drink. I rented a scooter like I did in Italy and decided to explore the coastline for the day. I rode about 30km east and west of Dubrovnik in my 50 cc speed demon (picture the dumb and dumber scene on the 'hog'). Eventually I arrived at my destinations. First was Cavtet which was a bit like Dubrovnik but by this point completely empty.


I spent a good amount of my day here walking around the shore, reading and once again being floored by the clearness and calmness of the water. It has been the most relaxing day I have had so far. I had the entire town to myself. As the sun slowly began to turn the corner I headed to Trsteno. There was a cool arboretum I wanted to see here. Just like Cavtat this town was also empty and walking around the many trees, flowers and species in the arboretum was very calming.


I found an old shack nearby and saw a path which I followed all the way to a cliff-top lookout point that looked deserted. The hike there reminded of something out a Legend of Zelda video game. Rugged coast line, windy, but very green everywhere you looked. One of many great spots to take in a Croatian sunset.


As I rode my scooter back I watched the sun hide behind an island and tried to catch it as I approached the next bend. This game went on until it finally sank behind the horizon. It won... That evening, as we did every evening, the entire hostel sat around the common area sharing the day's activities, where they're from, travel stories, and anything else. Conversations are mostly travel related and it's great to hear everyone's experiences and travel dreams.


This is my favorite thing about staying in hostels. There is a new beginning every day and everyone always has a story which they are welcomed and encouraged to share. Most hostels have this atmosphere but there was something about this hostel that made it more real. I think Dobrisa's warm welcome is addicting and it rubbed off on everyone. To any of you that have not read about Croatia you'll be doing yourself a favor if you do. It is a gem that will leave you coming back for more. East meets West in my next blog as I take a loong road trip to Turkey.

Italy part 2 (Rome, Naples, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast)

While traveling and meeting people in hostels you get a lot of mixed reviews about certain cities. Most people are eager to tell you about a certain place if they had a really bad experience and really try to convince you not to go if it's in your itinerary. Vice versa with cities they loved...makes sense. I've learned to accept the bad and the good and decide for myself.


Everyone I spoke with had extremely different thoughts about one ancient city in particular. It was extremely popular amongst certain people and shunned by others. That city was Rome. As I've been doing with most cities I booked a hostel in Rome for 2 nights and if I decided to stay longer I would take a chance there would be vacancy.I screeched into Rome on a high speed train from Venice mid-morning so I had a good part of the day and decided to go to Vatican city and the surrounding area first so I could do a full day in central Rome the next day. Rome immediately reminded me of Athens.


Ruins displayed nicely and proudly along the city and it was busy with a lot of traffic yet had its quiet pockets with nicer non-touristy areas. If I can, I usually try to get hostels outside the main tourist areas to get a feel of every day life. Unlike Athens, I did get to use the metro system in Rome. A lot! 1.20€ for a one-way ticket is a pretty good deal. My first metro ride to Vatican city took me through a route I would familiarize myself with the next few days. I visited St. Peters basilica first but almost didn't as the queue was about a football field long. Surprisingly, 10 minutes later I was gazing up at a stupendously beautiful ceiling and taking in the history of Italy's largest church (not cathedral).


Mom will be proud to know I did find a quiet spot away from the mass tourist groups to pray for a few minutes letting me leave the basilica feeling very happy. I walked around the small city for a few hours and realized I was too late to go into the Vatican museums to see, amongst other things, the Sistine chapel. It would have to wait until tomorrow. Next day I left a footprint in most of central Rome. I probably walked in one day what most people do in 2-3 days. Not sure if that's a good thing but I felt good about it. I started with the coliseum.

Our guide sucked (we almost boo'd him) so I went off on my own and imagined bloodshed, carnage, triumph and the sun-drenched oval stadium in all its glory thanks to, of course, the movie Gladiator. As impressive a structure as the coliseum was it didn't impress me as much as the Palatine area which was just a stones throw away. This was an introduction to how ancient Romans really lived. We saw roman toilets, sun rooms, and central heating all while having access to the biggest stadium in town!


Really though the every day life of the ancient roman and how they lived somehow interested me more than the action-packed spectacle just a few yards away. The rest of the day was spent touring most of the cites around central Rome and eating local cuisine. That evening I went out with a few locals and an Aussie hostel friend. The night ended with us sneaking to the rooftop of our hostel to have an impromptu roof-top party. As they say, 'when in Rome...' Had a blast with you guys, see you soon Erin and Marcelus!


Next day I went to see the magnificent Sistine chapel and then took my hangover to the pizza capital of the world, Naples. Naples was supposed to be a gateway to the Amalfi coast and Pompei but it proved to be much more than that. The hostel I stayed in had a great living area and provided the rest I


was searching for after 2 months of being on-the-go. I watched 2 movies one night, did mass laundry, and slept like a log. Now I was ready to see Naples, Sorrento, the island of Capri, and the Amalfi coast. Naples can be summarized as a welcomed surprise full of busy streets and


Italian character (and characters) in the way of food and outdoor markets. Pompei was tragically beautiful but not as dark as I thought it would be and Capri awakened my senses with the scent of lemon, olive trees everywhere and stunning blue waters.


We weren't lucky enough to see the blue grotto (where Tyler almost lost the engagement ring right before he proposed to Courtney) while in Capri but embraced the atmosphere. Congrats again you two. The real highlight for me was riding the amalfi coast on a scooter.


I can describe it as a combination of Big Sur's dropping cliffs with some of the colorful houses you would see perched in Oahu's mountains mixed with a formula one driving pace. There was a picture to take around every bend and just when we thought we had the best view another dramatic cliffside jaw-dropper would appear.


You couldn't stare for long because every car, moto, and bus on the road seemed to be trying to get somewhere...fast! I had the pleasure of enjoying this with my new Aussie friend Tahlia. We had quite the adventure dodging traffic, eating mysterious food, and literally riding into the sunset. Hope London treats you well the next few years Tahlia and have fun traveling with Sarah and Kirin.


As I continue to chase summer I keep reminding myself of how lucky I am to be able to do what I'm doing. I'm enjoying every moment (even the boring ones) and truly cherishing all these experiences (even the small things like the joy of having a drawer at a hostel) because who knows what will happen tomorrow.


Now I'll say ciao to the Euro and begin practicing my math skills with the Kuna...hello Croatia!