"Sorry sir but we can't let you fly today." Yes, those are the dreaded words I was welcomed with as I checked in two hours before I was to leave Istanbul (and Europe) for Nairobi to begin my African adventure.
After traveling to 9 countries in 71 days, meeting more amazing people than I could have ever imagined, and spending almost half my budget (thanks weak dollar), I was finally ready to ditch my jacket and scarf for some flip-flops (or thongs...that's for you Aussies) and t-shirts to worship the East African sun.
Oh yeah, I eventually did get on a plane to Nairobi after spending a pretty penny on another last minute flight. I'll be battling it out with a certain airline very soon...all part of the experience! There are a few things I have always wanted to experience and one of them is to go on a great safari. I quickly learned how expensive they were, however.
After some research and some good tips, I eventually chose a more affordable and interesting option. Overlanding. It's simple: one massive safari truck (seats 24) with lockers, tables, fridge, big windows, a LOT of bumpy driving, camping every night, and too many early mornings.
As a result we get a ton of interaction with locals, seeing all the major safari areas (plus much more) and of course, traveling with great people. 12 of us (Nicholas 'Massive', Shanndog, Jake, Claire, Deirdre, Rich, Sam, Chris, Sara, Danny, Linea, and I)
saw some pretty amazing things in two countries (Kenya and Tanzania), three parks (Masai Mara, Serengeti, and Ngoro Ngoro) and one island paradise (Zanzibar.) I'm sure these memories and friendships will last a long time.
We began in Kenya touring Masai Mara Nat'l park. Our first camping experience was very luxurious as tents were already set up for us. These were nicer than some hostels I found in Europe! I was amazed at how comfortably our hosts lived in such a remote area but technology has come a long way and they had many common comforts like electricity, Internet, hot showers and of course the one thing all of us can't live without...roaming baboons.
Our game drives at Masai Mara were just phenomenal. We saw the big 5 (rhino, hippo, buffalo, leopard, and lion) our first day along with all the other amazing wildlife in the park.
Aside from the big 5 there were a few things in particular I wanted to see. I wanted to see a giraffe drinking water because it's hilarious (see picture), a hippo opening its huge mouth, and ox peckers digging into buffalo's for ticks.
I'm glad to say I saw them all. My favorite sighting, however, was the mother cheetah with her cubs.
We were tipped off by another guide and immediately drove over. I would have loved to see them running but it was just as cool seeing them laying around killing time.
They are just stunning animals. We were able to visit the Masai Mara people on two different occasions (once in Kenya and once in Tanzania).
They live now as they have lived for many years and it was very interesting to learn about their cultural beliefs, their hierarchy in society, and how traditions have changed in modern times.
A few highlights include a dance the men perform in which they jump as high as they can (without using their arms). This is also a way to show off for the ladies. The higher you jump the more appealing you are. Another highlight for me was drinking cow blood.
The Masai drink cow blood every day by using a bow and a special arrow to puncture a cow's jugular. The cow doesn't even flinch and a second later a stream of blood is poured into a calabash. Blood is drank right away to avoid clotting.
What caught me off guard the most was the blood's warmth. I took a big swig, held it my mouth for a few seconds, braced myself and swallowed. It wasn't bad at all! About a half hour later I got a good burst of energy and realized it was from the blood.
Kids at the Masai village, and here in Africa for that matter, are so friendly and happy. They always wave when they see you, want to hold your hand, and are not shy about pointing towards their mouths for food or extending their hand out for sweets. Wether they get something or not they always smile.
We ran into some older kids playing soccer and they invited us to play with them. Most were either barefoot or playing with flip flops on a dirt field littered with random bits of trash and they still were able to control the old worn-out ball better than us Muzungus (that's 'white folk' in Swahili).
The language barrier at the beginning was a little difficult to overcome and there was a lot of sign language and broken English blurted out to get the game rolling. As soon as the game started though, we let the ball do the talking and for one great hour we all spoke the same language.
This is one of my favorite things about sports...it's one of the many universal languages.
Moving on to Tanzania we visited the Serengeti and Ngoro Ngoro crater. Stunning in their own way we witnessed part of the incredible wildebeest migration,
close encounters with lions/baboons, a very rare and welcomed rhino sighting, and some scavengers battling it out for survival.
Ngoro Ngoro impressed me more than Serengeti because of it's simplicity yet vast array of wildlife. Since it is the rainy season the entire crater was thriving and every animal seemed to be at ease.
Hippos lounged under large pools of water, elephants cooled themselves off with abundant amounts of mud and lions basked in high grass after a good meal. We saw a few hyenas and vultures battle it out for a carcass.
It was cool to see the entire food chain from beginning to end. I would have never thought it but we were so lucky to see so many animals that after seeing them over and over again, towards the end, they did not interest us as much (sorry zebra, wildebeest, and elk).
At that point we knew we were ready for some beach time and we headed off for the tropical waters of Zanzibar. After 2 days of bumpy yet scenic travel on the truck, two ferries, and a few shuttle rides, we made it to paradise.
Stone town in Zanzibar is the main port town and we stayed here one night. Backtracking a little, I became very close with two Australian guys throughout the trip.
After being initiated as an honorary Aussie by Shannon and Jake (this consisted of drinking a lot, wearing 'footie shorts', and learning Aussie lingo) we spent most of our time together.
We wanted to rent scooters to ride around stone town but we needed international drivers licenses and refused to pay so no go. Instead we hired a local to take us around town on his tuk tuk.
One hilarious hour later (beer in hand of course) we had cruised through alleys too narrow for our ride, honked at locals so they can laugh at us Muzungus, and push-started the clunker one too many times.
One of the best $5 I've spent so far. Next morning we headed north to Kendwa where to my surprise, we would be staying at one of the most stunning beaches I had ever seen. I am writing this from North Zanzibar in Kendwa as I look at crystal clear water and white sand.
This area is the exact mix of what I've been looking for. I have met some local guys that work out at an outdoor gym every evening, practice capoeira on the beach, and play volleyball throughout the day.
This all goes great lazy afternoons reading under grass huts and jumping in and out of the water. Heaven!
My portion of the over landing trip has ended and I've said goodbye to my 12 travel-mates.
I've decided to stay here in paradise for another few days to plan my next move to cape town and then eventually Thailand where I'm looking to do a Muay Thai kickboxing camp on the beach.
Thus far Africa has been a great experience and I'm trying to see not what what I came to see, but to experience whatever it is I see.
